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Are used to have indicators. Like being tired for no reason and achy for no reason in the mornings. I found a route around all of that with supplements. I move the supplements because they work for me so good. Water, human growth hormone, CBD oil, a good wife, and positive mental outlook. Being financially independent from anybody that can put a ceiling over your head and lock you in a box it’s very important to mental space that gives you creativity. I really work on that all the time. My financial freedom to go wherever I please whenever I want to.

Have you had any role models yourself that you have draw inspiration from or received wisdom from that has impacted on the way in which you’ve structured your life as you’ve aged?

To me, it has never been about the size of the wave. It has always been about being within a rhythm. Surfing and myself is how I keep my rhythm. If people break my rhythm, I kick them out of my life. My rhythm is everything.

What about in terms of your relationship with the ocean? Is it still about finding the heaviest ripable waves or have you found that you enjoy the surf in different ways as you’ve aged?

Do you have any specific indicators that you think might tip you off in the future that you might not be physically or mentally able to take on waves heavy or challenging waves anymore?

Not at all. If your body starts to go, that’s your fault. You can strengthen yourself through yoga exercise and good food. You can make money to travel and be creative even with the family and two kids. There’s no excuse for any of it. The best advice I can give a person is the cut the fat. Anything that gets in your mental way. That is fat. Get it out of your life.

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